https://www.lisavandesign.com/home daily 1.0 2022-04-12 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/7e99a46b-4ff9-40ea-81a6-d291b11abe57/Red+coat+cover.jpg Home - Make it stand out Inside a Fitted Wool Bomber Jacket https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/f9254883-cb52-401d-825f-4ecad74ded00/Coatigan+Front+Page+cover+pic.jpg Home Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/52b3ec8a-09aa-402a-abac-9464e7b82bbc/Cheetah+Coat.jpg Home - Make it stand out Exploring the structure and technical challenges of sewing a faux fur overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/f1f43f7d-04ec-4c06-8a24-6b15579ecc1a/About+me+photo+copy.jpg Home - Contact If you’re excited for the opportunity to work together, you can contact me here: MsLisaVan@gmail.com (331)305-4727 https://www.lisavandesign.com/about daily 0.75 2022-04-02 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/1648670063116-200M587VF0DE01NZ3TUL/SofiThanhauser052021_107bwBeowulfSheehan.jpg About https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/1648670812033-01ND9D8DVZRGDOUWVRQG/Capture.jpg About https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/1648672746441-9WCXU7TAXO752RTVXGE4/01607-BIG.jpg About https://www.lisavandesign.com/portfolio daily 0.75 2022-04-08 https://www.lisavandesign.com/portfolio/bomber monthly 0.5 2022-04-11 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/4ed3d194-0354-4e4e-997f-09744d24bd92/PXL_20211222_025211540.jpg Projects - Inside a Fitted Wool Bomber Jacket - A simple wardrobe staple. Bomber jackets are wardrobe staples for a good reason; they make jeans and sneakers look intentioned and fashionable. I chose a cropped jacket to better show off figure-hugging skinny jeans. The bright red wool fabric I found via a jobber, a textile industry term for a wholesaler who buys odd lots, over runs, and end runs from mills and production houses. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/decef321-4384-46d0-a1fe-595f690dfba2/PXL_20211118_031128630.PORTRAIT.jpg Projects - Inside a Fitted Wool Bomber Jacket https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/3e0c8679-36b1-46a8-81a1-905daef72e2e/PXL_20211118_031144932.PORTRAIT.jpg Projects - Inside a Fitted Wool Bomber Jacket https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/1e6c7070-3b96-4b23-9a1a-d1fb49542af4/PXL_20211118_031152578.PORTRAIT.jpg Projects - Inside a Fitted Wool Bomber Jacket https://www.lisavandesign.com/portfolio/cheetah monthly 0.5 2022-04-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/fc9ec8a7-7504-4bfc-882d-6a06d9a72b9c/IMG_20200819_215144_647.jpg Projects - Exploring the structure and technical challenges of sewing a faux fur overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/4367cd61-98d9-46e4-9ad8-ccd0baf0806a/PXL_20201024_193636411.PORTRAIT-01.COVER.jpg Projects - Exploring the structure and technical challenges of sewing a faux fur overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/b95e80d2-a9fa-499a-9673-1e1274fe14cc/PXL_20201024_193927659.PORTRAIT.jpg Projects - Exploring the structure and technical challenges of sewing a faux fur overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/b9a8ef11-73d2-401f-b875-20d397db54c6/PXL_20201024_193651161.PORTRAIT-01.COVER.jpg Projects - Exploring the structure and technical challenges of sewing a faux fur overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/e5eac898-069e-4e0f-9490-a8302abda3e2/IMG_20201024_231253_207.jpg Projects - Exploring the structure and technical challenges of sewing a faux fur overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/ed960d75-fb77-44e1-bcfa-0ae038150453/IMG_20200315_195414.jpg Projects - Exploring the structure and technical challenges of sewing a faux fur overcoat Every pattern piece is interfaced with medium non-woven fusible to give the feel of a weightier winter fabric. Interface is kept out of seamline areas to remove bulk and insure crisp lines. Interfacing or flatlining the entirety of the fashion fabric is typical for robust feeling overcoats https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/c4e77c2e-de5c-4cde-9645-af308ff75501/IMG_20200315_223338.jpg Projects - Exploring the structure and technical challenges of sewing a faux fur overcoat A typical practice for large, expensive, or time-consuming projects is to create a test garment, also known as a "muslin." This allows for fitting refinements and to practice technical construction elements of the design https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/6991cf6c-9268-4b4c-968c-53cbf96ec06e/IMG_20200316_221017.jpg Projects - Exploring the structure and technical challenges of sewing a faux fur overcoat Front chest interfacing structure. Bias horsehair canvas is fused to prevent dip between the shoulder and the bust apex. White woven interface is applied in a shape above the bust line, along the front edge, and into the lapel to provide structure at the front and across the upper chest, but allow the fabric to hang freely lower than the bust line https://www.lisavandesign.com/portfolio/coatigan monthly 0.5 2022-04-08 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/7b0ae9d5-5275-4183-9579-8954e3bb970f/PXL_20211220_230356791.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat - Tailoring in its pure form is the base for all other sewing. A tailor can make a dress, but a dressmaker cannot make a tailored jacket. These traditional hand techniques are a challenge to resource outside of a professional apprenticeship. A personal development challenge of mine during the pandemic was to advance my sewing skill set to the highest level and construct garments of surpassing complexity. After all, these elegant construction skills can be applied as-needed to any other realm of sewing. Now every project has this experienced understanding of quality woven into it from the very development. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/3a400508-9386-42a9-bdcc-6fca800d4f5e/5955_1024x1024.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat - Sourcing history for a modern look. I wanted a “coatigan,” so I chose a 1929 pattern for its simple, straight lines, narrow lapels, and unfussy look. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/606920fe-6eac-4a95-963e-1cb94335d9be/PXL_20201227_024006360.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/f01917ca-b496-49de-8147-955299ce577a/PXL_20201227_024331521.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/b18c97fd-b69e-404b-9a75-08d75ad51208/IMG_20201227_221148_339.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat - Bespoke pad stitching. Multiple elements of horsehair canvas are developed in the patterning stage and hand-stitched into the chest piece of the garment. Follow the link below to see the Instagram content explaining how these elements work together. My viewing audience does not necessarily want to learn how to make their own bespoke jacket, rather they want to be shown the purpose and motivation of these time-honored but rarely-practiced construction techniques. Why are there so many elements and what does each of them do? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/6188d8e6-7ad2-4fc8-8869-f949590fb3c1/IMG_20201227_221148_398.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat - Challenging Construction. My viewers especially like being shown the many design considerations that go into the construction of a complex garment. I make sure to level-set and include details for my followers with zero sewing knowledge. Seeing the points in the process where precision comes into play is particularly impressive and puts into perspective why such careful planning is required. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/29bc388e-9ecf-4eb3-b7a7-4a54fc7c5d4a/PXL_20210103_014900476.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat - Setting in a sleeve. Clean, crisp set-in sleeves are a defining feature of a well-made suit. Steam is a tool of couture workshop used to shrink fabrics and reduce volume; it is curious that a defining drawback in the modern era of machine washable clothing is an important feature in the expert fitting and coaxing of a 2-dimensional material to take shape of a 3-dimensional form. Steam-shrinking and shaping expertise come from years of practice so my content on the subject is exploratory. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/9b8fbf0c-a90a-4852-82ca-09875fa128f9/PXL_20210103_072656524.PORTRAIT.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat - The anatomy of a couture hem. Being able to see inside a garment to what details go into something as simple and ubiquitous as a hem is an engaging subject on my Instagram. In this post I give an overview of the characteristics of a clean hem as well as the specialty hand stitches and materials required to achieve this level of construction. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/9279164a-d7b4-4552-860f-741cfaa006cf/DEVELOPING+A+SLEEVE+PATTERN.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/91394130-00bd-4909-985f-d04a84e2515b/PXL_20210116_195045673.PORTRAIT.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/8d8aeae5-7fa8-4e32-ac19-a49fcff29c36/PAD+STITCHING+THE+CHEST+PIECE.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/ceb4d692-0c19-4f1b-ae5a-09789c53d69a/PXL_20210116_195034417.PORTRAIT.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/1b105956-369e-40d3-8a97-1a95cc438a86/a+LOOK+AT+BUILDING+STRUCTURE.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/23046ebb-5536-47e7-923f-ec1bf523ae21/PXL_20210116_195029567.PORTRAIT.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/361a71f5-8a6a-4db6-a4cf-861608588ba5/PRESSED+LAPEL+AND+BACK+STAY.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/871938fb-e625-4d71-9ed3-4ec4c98ed8d4/POCKET+PATTERN+CHANGES.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/ed1fb278-cfe7-4912-b46f-75b395511584/BASTING+AND+UNDERCOLLAR.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/40230dbc-ac67-4501-aefc-05fc1c322680/COLLAR+ON.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/5a877a0d-6dbc-455e-a8e7-1a7303d94f3b/SET+IN+SLEEVES.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/e4771511-5b0a-4be8-bcfe-1e21410e8c0f/ANATOMY+OF+A+COUTURE+HEM.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/4ac6396d-530f-4e66-88d6-d7f736eefb49/WHY+DOES+THE+HEM+HAVE+BIAS.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/31c45e3b-a384-49ad-a0be-fc802691a7f5/ADVICE+FOR+NOVICES.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/bfdc4dc8-f672-49c8-9d47-bba822a17e48/FIRST+LOOK.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/c5f699ad-4a09-43af-9d6f-e9a7a87224da/CATCH+STITCHING+THE+FACING.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/1d21e986-a1db-4ce6-a217-7d719333c003/SETTING+IN+THE+LINING.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/3d99134e-f80c-4d42-a7c1-d8f6ea71410f/CORRECTING+MISTAKES.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/6b34f3ef-ac45-4b17-bbbf-499d289e2443/SLEEVE+LINING.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/120a8fdb-d856-461f-bb89-4cf6548de1a7/HEMMING+THE+LINING.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/f298b06e-5ec5-4414-9dcd-9cfde156f828/TOPSTITCH+BY+HAND.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/624477cedbc9dd2b7a4d43b0/bedbf21e-707b-4815-90b2-3a9c739d46e0/FINISHED+LOOK.jpg Projects - Instagram content following the creation of a bespoke wool overcoat